The oldest archaeological finds in Amsterdam date from Roman times - coins and a few artefacts suggest there were people around, but there's no evidence of human settlement. This isn't surprising, considering the region was a delightful mass of shifting lakes, swamps and soggy peat. Amsterdam's earliest settlers were dam-building 12th-century farmers and fisherfolk who tamed the marshlands around the Amstel with ditches and dikes. The city grew rapidly after 1300 as a key player in trade between the North and Baltic seas and southern Europe. But as the money flowed in, class struggle intensified - the Reformation grew out of a struggle for power between the emerging merchants and the Catholic-sanctioned aristocrats. Calvinism, a form of Protestantism, gripped the hearts and minds of Amsterdam's nouveau riche, with its emphasis on sobriety, hard work and community-based worship. The Calvinists took on the imperial power of Spain's Catholic Philip II, and in 1578 they captured Amsterdam from him. The following year Amsterdam and seven northern provinces declared themselves an independent republic - Holland - led by William of Orange, the forefather of today's royal family. Amsterdam's Golden Age (1580-1740) kicked off when trading rival Antwerp was taken by the Spanish and its access to the sea restricted. By 1600, Amsterdam's ships dominated seaborne trade and fishing in Europe, extending their horizons through the 17th century as Dutch overseas interests were established. During the 18th century, money gradually overtook trade as the city's biggest industry. Amsterdam's trade and fishing came to a complete halt in the early 19th century when the city was occupied by the French and then blockaded by the British. By the time the French trooped out in 1814, Amsterdam had become a local market town and Britain ruled the seas.

In the 20th century, Amsterdam turned its back on the sea and restyled itself as an industrial centre: rail links were established, steel production thrived and the population expanded. As capital of a neutral Netherlands, Amsterdam managed relatively well in WWI, and the 1920s were boom years, crowned by the Olympic Games hosted in 1928. Unfortunately, the depression of the 1930s hit the city hard, with unemployment peaking at 25%, and tensions rose between socialists, communists and fascists. The Netherlands tried to stay neutral in WWII, but Germany invaded in May 1940, and for the first time in 400 years the city's population experienced the grim realities of war first-hand. The occupying forces slowly introduced measures against Amsterdam's large Jewish population, often with the complicity of local authorities, and although workers went out on strike in support of their Jewish compatriots in 1941, things had gone too far. Only one in 16 of Amsterdam's Jews survived the war, the highest proportion of Jews murdered anywhere in Western Europe. Throughout the occupation the city's populace had largely knuckled under and tried to make do as best they could, but when the invaders began rounding up Dutch men to work in Germany, a resistance movement, founded by an alliance of Calvinists and communists, began operating. The country's south was liberated by the Allies in 1944, but isolated Amsterdam suffered horribly in the severe winter of 1944-45, and thousands of residents died. The city was finally liberated in May 1945. Postwar Amsterdam gathered itself quietly until the early 1960s, when people began to question the status quo and Amsterdam became the radical heart of Europe. The Provos kicked it all off, with a series of anarchic street 'happenings', while students and women campaigned for greater rights and hippies started arriving in the 'Magic Centre' of Europe, the city where anything was possible. The riotous squatter movement stopped the demolition of much cheap inner-city housing, the lack of which is a continuing problem, and many residents protested against thoughtless city planning, developing the policy of an inner city where people can live, work and shop. By the early 1980s, consensus had settled in, and with it progressive planning and social policies like the neighbourhood councils, a tolerant approach to drugs, building of affordable housing and legal recognition of gay and lesbian couples.

During the 90s family businesses and small industries were replaced by tertiary-sector professionals and the service industry that sprang up resulted in the inner city becoming a very pleasant melange of pubs, coffee shops, restaurants and hotels. The ethnic makeup of the city changed too, with Surinamese, Moroccans, Turks and Antillians making up 25% of the population, and an influx of higher-income expats thanks to the city's success in attracting foreign business. Partly as a result of these economic, social and cultural shifts, it seems that money is back in favour in 21st-century Amsterdam and anything is possible - so long as it's 'sensibly' planned and all stakeholders are consulted. The city is a livable place (if you can find anywhere to live) and tourists keep flocking to see what it's all about: Amsterdam is fourth in line for Europe's tourism crown, behind London, Paris and Rome.

Violent crime is unusual in Amsterdam but theft, especially pickpocketing, is a real problem, especially for tourists. Don't carry more money than you intend to spend - use a secondary wallet or purse and keep your main one safe.A car with foreign registration is a popular target, and if it's parked along a canal it will probably get broken into. Don't leave things in the car: definitely remove registration and ID papers, and if possible the radio.If something is stolen, by all means get a police report for insurance purposes but don't expect the police to retrieve your property or to apprehend the thief - put the matter down to experience. There's usually very little they can do. What they will do, however, is refer about 10% of cases to a voluntary support group in the police station at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, called Amsterdam Tourist Assistance Service, where traumatised victims receive the help they need to get back on their feet.If you have trouble on the train to Amsterdam or at Centraal Station itself, contact the spoorwegpolitie (railway police) at the west end of track 2A. You can report violence or missing/stolen property here, and the staff can put you in touch with your consulate or other relevant support agencies. They'll also put through a station announcement if you're looking for someone. This office is more or less always open.The red-light district is full of shady characters loitering on street corners. They seem harmless enough, but if you're accosted, simply say nee dank (no thanks) and keep walking. Don't take photos of the prostitutes.Amsterdam constantly jostles with Paris and Vienna for the title of dog-shit capital of the world and you soon learn to look where you're walking.Nonsmokers have few rights here: tobacco smoke in pubs can be thick enough to deter all but the most committed smokers, and unfortunately the Dutch seem allergic to open windows.

Cycling is the main way to move - Amsterdam is flat as, which also makes it perfect for jogging and walking. The Dutch are also into sailing in a big way and windsurfing is almost a national sport. Ice skating is popular if the winter is cold enough to allow it.

If you're looking for a scene, you've found one. Enter the theatrical, all-white room, snuggle on the enormous mattresses and snack on victuals as DJs spin house music. Shows are provocative and entertaining - if it's lamb night, live sheep may be led through to the kitchen. If it's hospital night, look out.

Medieval Centre

Jonge Roelensteeg 21

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.supperclub.nl

open hours:20:00-01:00

Blue Pepper does contemporary Indonesian with Pacific Rim references like nowhere else in Amsterdam. The stylish room is a delight so just sit back, order one of the well-chosen wines and opt for one of the delicious set menus which arrive well-paced, well-sized and packed with flavour.

Nassaukade 366

Jordaan

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.restaurantbluepepper.com

open hours:18:00-22:00

In warm weather the canalside tables at the head of the Herengracht are an aphrodisiac, and the sumptuous Art Nouveau interior provides the perfect backdrop for excellent, French- and Italian-inspired dishes like silky roast beef.

Brouwersgracht 60

Western Canal Belt

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.debelhamel.nl

Next to the Stedelijk Museum building is the Van Gogh Museum, one of Amsterdam's must-sees. Opened in 1973 to house the collection of Vincent's younger brother Theo, it consists of about 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Vincent and his friends and contemporaries (Gauguin, Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec and Bernard), as well as many of the artist's personal effects.

Paulus Potterstraat 7

Old South

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.vangoghmuseum.nl

open hours:10:00-18:00

prices:

In the 1970s the Vondelpark used to be a haunt for hippies; these days it's less of a political hotbed but still one of the city's most beautiful green spots. Laid out as a green belt for the bourgeoisie in the 1860s, the English-style Vondelpark offers a wealth of ponds, lawns, thickets and winding footpaths to while away the hours.

Stadhouderskade

Old South

Web: http://www.vondelpark.nl

prices:

The Jordaan was a working class district during the huge canal belt project in the early 17th century: it was where the canal-diggers, bridge-builders, carpenters and stonemasons lived. Now it's colonised by yuppies who are drawn to the good pubs, offbeat shops, enchanting restaurants and weird little art galleries.

Jordaan

Web: http://www.visitamsterdam.nl

prices:

It is one of the 20th century's most compelling stories: a young Jewish girl forced into hiding with her family and their friends to escape deportation by the Nazis. The house they used as a hideaway should be a highlight of any visit to Amsterdam; indeed, it gets nearly a million visitors a year. The house itself is now contained within a modern, square shell. Come early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.

Prinsengracht 267

Western Canal Belt

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.annefrank.org

prices:

The Rijksmuseum (National Museum) is the premier art museum of the Netherlands, and no self-respecting visitor to Amsterdam can afford to miss it. Though most of the building is closed for renovations until early 2010, there is an excellent collection of around 200 masterpieces exhibited in a side section, the Philips wing. Still, over a million people visit every year, so come early to avoid the queues or buy your (printable) tickets online.

Stadhouderskade 42

Old South

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.rijksmuseum.nl

open hours:10:00-18:00

prices:

Considered by some customers to be the king of the brown cafés, De Pieper is small, unassuming and unmistakably old (1665). The interior features stained-glass windows, fresh sand on the floors, antique Delft beer mugs hanging from the bar and a working Belgian beer pump (1875). It's a friendly, sweet place for a late-night Wieckse Witte.

Western Canal Belt

Prinsengracht 424

telephone or fax: 

open hours:11:00-01:00

With its olive-green vinyl couches and ruby-red walls, Bep resembles a kitsch, 1950s Eastern European cabaret lounge. It gets groovy with filmmakers, photographers and artists. The heat is off since its heyday, and we prefer it.

Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 260

Medieval Centre

telephone or fax: 

open hours:16:30-01:00

Popular with visiting celebrities, this slick place is contemporary in style despite a nod to its heritage (it opened in 1898 but was closed for 50 years. Its high ceilings, chandeliers, velvet sofas and wall-mounted butterfly collection create the perfect environment for lingering over cocktails.

Centrum

Rembrandtplein 17

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.dekroon.nl

open hours:12:00-01:00

One of the best reasons to visit Amsterdam is for the gezelligheid, a term variously translated as friendliness, or informality. You can feel gezellig just about anywhere - in a cosy cafe or bar definitely, but even a supermarket queue to a rush-hour train will do.

Amsterdam's massive Schiphol airport, one of the biggest in the world, has connections and services galore. Buses are the best budget way to travel, but train is very pleasant - Centraal Station is both beautiful and efficient, and you can take the Eurostar train to Britain. Ferries run from Amsterdam to Britain and Norway. The roads in the Netherlands are characteristically well-maintained; if you want to continue your love affair with the bicycle, there are loads of bike paths, and the Dutch make popping your treddly on a ferry or train cheap and easy.

The best and most classically 'Amsterdam' way to get around the city is by bicycle - make sure you get a lock, as theft is rife. Of course, the city is of such manageable size you can reach most places on foot, but there's also an efficient public transport system. It covers almost the whole city (though the canal belt can be tricky as trams and buses stick to 'spoke' roads). Centraal Station is the hub of it all, where tram, bus, train and metro lines converge. Trams are good for the inner city, buses go farther out, while the train is most useful for getting to the airport and the metro is best for getting to the international bus station.