Although little is known about the ancient history of this area, archaeological finds suggest that humans have been living here since at least 3000 BC. Other evidence links the peoples of what are now the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Oman to the mysterious Bronze Age Magan civilization. Magan ships sailed to Babylonia, Mesopotamia and beyond, trading copper from Oman and pearls from the mouth of Dubai Creek with the heavyweights of the Bronze Age economy. The Magan civilization waned around 2000 BC, but Dubai's instinct for trade remained. Excavations at Jumeirah, just south of Dubai, recently unearthed a 6th-century caravan station, proving that the area's population was still keeping the trade routes well oiled during this period. Around this same time, the Sassanids, a Persian dynasty who had inhabited the mouth of Dubai Creek since 224, were driven out by the Umayyads, who came to stay and brought Islam with them. Exploiting their prime location between the Mediterranean Sea and Indian Ocean, the new inhabitants, working with the old, began re-establishing old trade routes and spreading the word of Allah, all the while making folks fantastic deals for the lowest everyday prices in the Gulf. As trade began to match pearl diving's importance to the local economy, merchant dhows sailed as far as China, returning with silk and porcelain for Middle Eastern and European markets. This maritime madness reached its peak between 750 and 1258. Soon everyone wanted a piece of the Gulf's action. By the late 16th century the Portuguese were attempting to control local trade. Their success was such that many coastal settlements were practically abandoned, and the tribes took refuge in oases far from the coast. The British finally gained control of the region's waterways in 1766. Dubai was caught between local power struggles and Europe's imperial dreams, but somehow turned this bad situation to its advantage, expanding its pearl trade through every channel. In 1833 a neighbouring tribal power, the Bani Yas, decided that Dubai would be its new turf. Eight hundred Bani Yas moved into the Bur Dubai area under the leadership of Maktoum bin Butti, founder of the Al-Maktoum dynasty that still rules the emirate today. The region's two economic epicentres, neighbouring Sharjah and Lingah in modern-day Iran, were already losing business to bustling Dubai. Sheikh Maktoum decided to capitalise on the opportunity. In 1892 he signed an exclusive business deal with the British and in 1894 permitted a full tax exemption for foreign traders. Persian merchants were the first group of expats to take advantage of the deal, but traders the world over were on the way.

In 1903, when the sheikh convinced a major British steamship line to make Dubai a port of call, a 25-year boom began. The Great Depression, compounded by the emergence of artificial pearls in 1929, cast a dark cloud over Dubai's newfound prosperity. Young Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum, convinced that the pearl trade was dead, decided that this cloud had a 24-karat lining. Dubai wasn't duty-free for nothing. Soon, the re-export business, whereby goods were cheaply imported into a duty-free port and immediately exported to another market, exploded. After Dubai Creek was dredged in 1963, allowing almost any boat safe harbour, gold smuggling took off like a rocket. Dubai's lucky streak had only just begun. In 1966, oil was discovered and the economy kicked into overdrive. The British had already decided to pack up the empire and head home, and in 1971, Dubai became the seventh emirate of the newly formed UAE. Sheikh Rashid agreed to a formula that gave the emirates of Abu Dhabi and Dubai the most weight in the federation, and made sure that Dubai would continue living life in the fast lane. Border disputes and friction about the integration of the Emirates led to some tension, but in 1979, Sheikh Rashid and Sheikh Zayed of Abu Dhabi sealed a compromise; in effect, Dubai would remain a bastion of free trade while Abu Dhabi imposed a tighter federal structure on the rest of the Emirates. When Sheikh Rashid, the architect of Dubai's success and unrivalled financial freedom, died in 1990, his son Sheikh Maktoum took the reins of power. The core of Maktoum's policies were economic freedom and the no-holds-barred promotion of Dubai, the public face of which was his brother Sheikh Mohammed, who took over after Sheikh Maktoum's death in 2006.

World-class tennis tournaments, boat and horse races, desert rallies and one of the largest air shows in the world attract millions of visitors to the city. Other high-profile events, such as the Dubai Shopping Festival and Dubai Summer Surprises, bring hordes of tourists into town. With oil revenues now only for only 6% of Dubai's income, post-petroleum Dubai is going to be in good shape. The story of Dubai reads like a rags-to-riches tale, and indeed, it is hard to imagine anywhere else in the world that has developed at such a pace, in such a short time, for so many different people.

Familiarising yourself with local customs relating to dress code and alcohol is your first step to keeping out of trouble. On the whole, Dubai is a very safe city, but you should exercise the same sort of caution with your personal safety as you would anywhere. One very real danger in Dubai is bad driving. Be aware when driving and walking near busy roads that speed limits, indication and other safety related road rules do not apply for many in Dubai. We don't recommend that you swim, water-ski or jet-ski in the Creek. Despite the generally small surf, currents can be very strong and drownings are not uncommon. The heat can be oppressive and it's important to drink plenty of water - most locals don't leave the house without a bottle of water.

Although many beaches are the private domains of various five-star hotels, for a fee, you can spend the day lounging on the sand and swimming in the Gulf's clear water with the beautiful people. There are also public beaches, but single women may find the male attention a bit much.

This lovely grassy park adjoins Jumeirah Beach. It has walkways, kiosks, barbecue pits, picnic tables and a children's play area. The long stretch of beach is clean, lined with shady palm trees, and regularly patrolled by lifeguards. The women's only day is an opportunity for the ladies to get a tan.

SE of Bur Dubai

Jumeirah Rd

Jumeirah

telephone or fax: 

open hours:08:00-22:30

This multidomed mosque boaststhe city's tallest minaret. The mosque might appear to be a beautiful example ofrestoration work, but it was in fact built in the1990s. As well as being the centre of Dubai's religious and cultural life, the original mosque was also home to the town's kuttab (Quranic school) where children learnt to recite the Quran.

Ali bin Abi Talib St

Bur Dubai

opposite Dubai museum

This small but atmospheric souq was the largest in the region at the start of the 20th century. Take in the wonderfully restored wind-tower architecture and pungent aromas from jute sacks brimming with frankincense and oud, herbs and spices. It's fun to chat to the shopkeepers and guess the things you don't recognise.

Al Abra St

Deira

Deira Old Souq

btwn Baniyas Rd & Al Sabkha Rd

Built sometime in the 6th century AD, this township is the biggest and perhaps most significant archaeological site in the UAE. You'll see the remains of stone walls, a souq, houses and what is thought to have been a governor's palace. Objects found on the site, such as pottery and coins, are on display at Dubai Museum and the Heritage Village.

btwn Jumeirah and Al-Wasl Rds

Jumeirah

southeast of Bur Dubai

A peaceful retreat from the traffic chaos that's less than a block away, XVA is a contemporary art gallery, cafe and boutique hotel in a beautifully restored old courtyard residence. XVA holds regular exhibitions of art, sculpture and design, organises creek cruises with a difference and has a wonderful gift shop. This is what Dubai needs more of!

Al-Fahidi St

Bastakiya

behind Basta Art Café, Al Musallah Roundabout

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.xvagallery.com

open hours:09:30-20:00

Built in 1896, this was once the home of the ruling Al-Maktoum family. It was built using traditional methods, from coral coated with lime and plaster. Inside there's an interesting exhibition of photographs showing how little time it took for Dubai to go from a little fishing and pearling town to a big money, resort-style oil city.

Al-Shindagha Rd

nr Al-Shindagha Tunnel

Bur Dubai

telephone or fax: 

prices:

This decadent restaurant-cum-bar-cum-nightclub is where international celebrities play when in town. Its chic Parisian-brasserie-style - crystal chandeliers, sumptuous velvet padded booths, gilt-edged mirrors and heavy drapes - may seem odd in Dubai, but nobody cares when DJs like Stéphane Pompougnac spin chill-out beats; they just dance.

Dubai Marine Beach Resort & Spa

Jumeirah Rd

Jumeirah

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.myboudoir.com

open hours:19:00-03:00

This casual seaside bar is the locals' top spot for laid-back sundowners on a hot afternoon. It's the kind of place you don't have to dress up for, and can head to straight after a day at the beach. It even manages to maintain its laid-back air when a DJ is on the deck spinning chilled-out sounds for Dubai's body-conscious set.

Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina

Al-Sufouh Rd

Al-Sufouh

opposite Dubai Media City

telephone or fax: 

open hours:09:00-02:00

Tagine offers the best Moroccan experience in Dubai. After walking through the sheesha courtyard and past a classic Moroccan tiled fountain, you're ready for a trip to Fez or Marrakech. And this restaurant doesn't disappoint. From the fez-wearing waiters and classic harira soup to rich tagines and live musicians, it's the real deal. Book ahead.

One&Only Royal Mirage

Al-Sufouh

Jumeira Beach Road

telephone or fax: 

open hours:19:00-23:30

You'd be forgiven for thinking that Chandelier was the only restaurant around - to most Lebanese expats, it is! This stylish slice of Beirut is known for its excellent mezze, grilled haloumi cheese and tasty sausages, such as makanek (spicy Arabic sausage with tomato, garlic and onion sauce). Meals usually finish with a marathon sheesha session. Great fun.

Al-Sufouh Rd

Al-Mina al-Seyahi

Marina Walk, Dubai Marina

telephone or fax: 

A local favourite, the brightly lit Al Mallah sees waves of customers converge on its outdoor seating area, even when the thermometer is about to burst in summer. They're all here for the shwarmas, served either wrapped or as a plate, and a fresh juice. The other typical Lebanese fare on the menu is excellent too.

Al-Dhiyafah St

Satwa

telephone or fax: 

More than three-quarters of Dubai's population are citizens of other countries. Of Dubai's approximately 997,000 people, 87% are foreign nationals, 65% of these from Asia.

Dubai International Airport (DXB) is the busiest airport in the Middle East. The national carrier is Emirates, which flies to more than 80 destinations in the Middle East, Europe, Australia, Africa and the Indian subcontinent. For all the talk of free markets, air fares out of the UAE are just as strictly regulated as anywhere else; there are no bucket shops. Dubai International Airport has no separate airport departure tax; it's included in the price of your ticket. Buses run from Dubai to other parts of the UAE and surrounding countries. One useful bus route runs to Hatta from the Deira bus station. To get to most other cities in the Emirates, take a Dubai Transport bus or minibus. There are two buses a day to Muscat, Oman. Balawi Bus Service runs to Jordan twice weekly and to Egypt on Wednesdays. Long-distance taxis can take you to any other emirate on a shared or 'engaged' basis (which means you'll either have to wait until all five seats are filled or pay for them yourself). Settle the price before you leave. Passenger ferries make the 12-hour trip between Sharjah (a 20-minute drive from Dubai) and the port of Bandar-e Abbas in Iran daily. There's also a fortnightly passenger service between Dubai and Bushehr in Iran. It leaves the passenger terminal at Port Rashid every second Sunday.

Buses run between Dubai International Airport and Deira bus station every 15 to 20 minutes; however, the most popular way in and out is the metered, beige-coloured Dubai Transport taxis - which are also the best to catch anywhere, as most drivers know their way around. Local buses run from the Deira bus station, near the Gold Souq, and the Bur Dubai station on Al-Ghubaiba Rd. Monthly bus passes, known as taufeer, get you unlimited travel on one or the other side of Dubai Creek or, more expensively, throughout the city. Driving in the city of Dubai is considered an extreme sport, but masochists love it. If you hire a car, bring your credit card and a copy of your passport. Note that all accidents, no matter how small, must be reported to the police. The older parts of Dubai, with their souqs, fascinating architecture and museums, are best seen on foot. Abra (water taxi) crisscross Dubai Creek from early morning until around midnight, and are a great way to see the waterfront.