Ancient Romans believed their city had been founded on 21 April 753 BC, and more recent archaeological discoveries pretty much back this up. According to myth, the city was founded by the twin sons of Mars, god of war, and Rhea Silvia, princess and (until meeting Mars) vestal virgin. The twins, Romulus and Remus, were abandoned on the shores of the Tiber and brought up by a she-wolf. Romulus killed his brother in a battle over who should govern, then established the city of Rome on the Palatino. The non-mythical city was ruled by Etruscan kings until 510 BC, when it became a republic. By the 2nd century BC the city controlled central and southern Italy, had defeated the rival empire of Carthage and was poised to take over the whole Mediterranean. But as Rome became more powerful abroad, its citizens got more uppity at home - the city suffered several civil wars, with the last wrapping up on the Ides of March, 44 BC, when Brutus backstabbed Julius Caesar. The Republic ended and the emperors took over, ushering in a frenzy of civic and monumental building. Each emperor wanted to leave his mark on the city and in their eagerness to outdo one another, they sprinkled Rome with many of the famous buildings that still stand today. The Empire reached its apogee under Trajan (98-117 AD), spanning the area from northern England to Mesopotamia, north to the River Danube and south down the Nile. With the rise of Christianity in the 4th century, Rome lost much of its secular power but became the centre of a new empire, Christendom. The Bishop of Rome was named successor to Saint Peter (or, in other words, Pope). Many of the city's large basilicas - such as Santa Croce, Santa Maria Maggiore, San Pietro and San Sebastiano - were built around this time. In 410, the Barbarian invasions began, but in truth the citizens themselves did more damage, stripping many of the city's fine buildings for their marble. The Western Roman Empire bit the dust in 476 when Odoacer deposed Emperor Romulus Augustulus - from this time on power moved east, and Germanic and Byzantine empires bickered over authority over Rome. In the late 8th century, Pope Stephen II backed up the claims of Frankish king Pepin the Short that he was the chosen of God, and in return received a parcel of land around Rome. The alliance became known as the Holy Roman Empire - combining the power of church and state. From the 9th to the 12th centuries the power of the popes grew, although it was under constant attack from the city's various aristocratic houses. The papacy splurged its wealth on several new churches dedicated to the Virgin - the Santa Marias of Cosmedin, Trastevere (with its spectacular mosaic), Aracoeli and sopra Minerva. Although things hit the skids a bit in the 14th century, when the pope was exiled to Avingnon due to factional fighting and the city's population and infrastructure took a plummet, the papacy had re-established its firm grip on the reins by the 15th century. Things got lavish. In cahoots with some of Italy's greatest artists - Raphael, Bernini, Borromini - and their cash-stacked patrons - the Medicis, Farneses and Borgheses - the papacy transformed Rome into a wonderland of Renaissance and Baroque piazzas, churches and fountains. Money poured in as pilgrims came from all over Europe to see the wonders of the Holy See. The only real interruption to papal power came in the form of the Roman Commune, whose republican constitution and classical-style senate were instituted during the Roman revolution of 1143. But as some guy once said, pride goes before a fall: Charles V's sack of Rome in 1527, the French Revolution, Napoleon's march across Europe and the Franco-Prussian War pulled the rug out from under papal power. In 1870 Rome became capital of the newly united Italy, leaving the pope with mere figurehead status and causing him to abandon the city for the home fires of the Vatican.

In the 20th century, Rome went through yet another growth spurt. The pope was made sovereign of Vatican City in 1929. The new administration was more interested in offices and housing blocks than churches, and during the 1930s the city expanded beyond the city walls. During Mussolini's rule, in the 1920s and '30s, Rome took on Fascist airs, puffing out its chest with wide boulevards and overblown architecture. Dreams of imperial glory led Mussolini to form an alliance with Germany during WWII, and the nightmare that ensued helped set the scene for Italy's transformation from a totalitarian regime into a republic in 1946. The postwar years saw Rome expanding physically and becoming the centre of Italy's film industry until the early 1960s. The 1970s and '80s were marked by more violent transformations, namely those of some radical student groups (who had a long list of complaints about Italy's left-wing governments) into right-wing terrorists. The Brigate Rosse (Red Brigade) was the most notorious group, going so far as to kidnap and eventually murder former prime minister Aldo Moro in Rome in 1978.

The last few decades of the 20th century saw a mixture of economic success and wide-ranging corruption scandals which touched many a politician, public official and businessperson. The public reacted with perverse moral indignation in 1994 by electing a stridently right-wing coalition headed by a billionaire media magnate, Silvio Berlusconi. Amid claims of corruption, the government fell, and after some years of typically Italian political musical chairs, Berlusconi returned from the desert to win the 2001 national elections, promising 'few words and plenty of action'. Despite the landslide victory, his right-wing government's activities were regularly greeted with large-scale protests and voters eventually replaced him with the left-wing Romani Prodi in elections of 2006. The Jubilee Year in 2000, during which around 16 million Catholic pilgrims visited the city, gave Rome impetus to clean up her act. Billions were spent cleaning church and palazzo facades, improving roads and transport, and reclaiming public spaces from the car parks they'd become. At the start of the new millennium Rome had never looked more beautiful. Meanwhile, Rome proper ostensibly remains, as it has always been, an administrative and tourist centre, without much sign of industry or trade, but lots of political intrigue.

Rome is not a dangerous city but pickpocketsand bag-snatchers are active. Wear amoney belt under your clothing and wear your bag across your body. Beware if someone knocks your side mirror as they may snatch your watch as you reach to fix it. Watch out for groups ofdishevelled-looking women and children carrying bits of cardboard which they useto distract you while they swarmaround and pickpocket with lightning speed. If you are being targeted by a group, either cross the street, or shout 'Va via!' ('Go away!') in a loud, angry voice.Be careful on crowdedbuses (the No 64 bus, which runs from StazioneTermini to the Vatican, is notorious), the Metro (head for the end carriages, which are less crowded) andbusy market areas. There isonly one foolproof way to deter pickpockets: simply do not carry any money or valuables in yourpockets and be very careful about your bags,even in hotels.Parked cars, particularly with foreign number plates or rental company stickers,are also prime targets for thieves. Try removingor covering the stickers, leave a localnewspaper on the seat to make it look likea local car and opt for supervised car parks.Beware of dodgy shopkeepers short-changing you. Acquaint yourself with euro denominations and count your change carefully.

Rome's activities (apart from the mandatory sightseeing) usually involve nothing more strenuous than eating, drinking and listening to good music. Conceivably you could work up a sweat running up and down the Spanish Steps; though everyone will get excited thinking you're chasing a pickpocket.

This 'queen of all private collections' was formed by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, the most passionate and knowledgeable art collector of his day. The collection - including works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Botticelli and Raphael - and the mansion were acquired by the Italian state in 1902; a lengthy restoration took place in the 1990s.

Flaminio

Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.galleriaborghese.it

prices:

Built over the course of 900 years, the Roman Forum (Foro Romano) was the commercial, political and religious centre of ancient Rome from the Republican era until the 4th century AD. During medieval times the area was used to graze cattle and it was plundered for its precious marble.

Piazza Santa Maria Nova 53 & Via di Monte Tarpeo

Campitelli

entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova 53 & Via di Monte Tarpeo

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.capitolium.org

Long after memories of all the rest of Rome's interiors run together in an opulent blur, visitors vividly recall the particulars of the bizarre and macabre chapels of this cemetery, where the decorative elements - from the picture frames to the light fittings - are all made of human bones.

Sallustiano

Via Vittorio Veneto 27

telephone or fax: 

open hours:09:00-12:00

Rome's largest and most famous fountain, Fontana di Trevi was completed by Nicola Salvi in 1762, and immortalised by Marcello Mastroianni and a frolicking Anita Ekberg in Fellini's La Dolce Vita.This extravagant baroque work takes up most of the piazza, appears to meld into the palazzo, and depicts Neptune's chariot being led by Tritons with seahorses - one wild, one docile - representing the moods of the sea.

Quirinale

Piazza di Trevi

Via del Tritone

Although its traditionally proletarian nature is changing as the crumbling palazzi become gentrified, a stroll among the labyrinthine alleys of Trastevere still reaps small gems of a bygone past. Washing strung out from the apartments in best Mama-leone tradition has everyone sighing and reaching for the Kodaks.

Trastevere

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Rome's major classical-music organisation dates to the 16th century when it was founded by, among others, the composer Palestrina. The academy's programme includes a world-class symphonic season - featuring superstar guest conductors - and short festivals dedicated to single composers. The in-house orchestra is directed by Italian Antonio Pappano.

Parioli

Viale Pietro de Coubertin 34

Auditorium Parco della Musica

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.santacecilia.it

Taking its name from Giordano Bruno da Nola, the hooded monk-Obiwan lookalike in the centre of the campo (field), Il Nolano is a refined little arty wine bar with peeling paint, rickety tables, and old wooden cinema seats. It's often used for art exhibitions and book presentations.

Campo de' Fiori 11

Centro Storico

Campo De' Fiori

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This elegant little bar feels like something you might stumble on in left-bank Paris: small, with mismatched chairs and tables and an eclectic, fittingly boho crowd drinking wine by the glass or cups of tea. It's gay but attracts all types.

Via degli Zingari 36

Monti

telephone or fax: 

La Rosetta is so excellent that it doesn't have to be overly formal. Some say this is Rome's best fish restaurant; others say it's the best in Italy. Chef Massimo Riccioli's dishes are often startlingly simple - cuttlefish with lemon and olive oil or linguine ai frutti di mare (flat spaghetti with seafood) - but they're prepared with genius. He can also innovate, as his moscardini (baby octopus) with mint shows. Bookings are essential.

Via della Rosetta 8-9

Centro Storico

nr Pantheon

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.larosetta.com

You'll have to book, as Il Bacaro is the size of a postage stamp and always busy. It might be small but it's perfectly formed: the primi (first courses) are imaginative - try spaghetti con gamberi, porcini, pecorino e tartufo (spaghetti with prawns, porcini mushrooms, cheese and truffles) - the meat dishes are beefy and the wine list is well chosen. Summer seating spills out under a vine-covered pergola.

Via degli Spagnoli 27

Colonna

nr Pantheon

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.ilbacaro.com

Eat beneath the fluttering knickers of the neighbourhood at this terrific trattoria, frequented by hungry locals and tourists. On a cobbled backstreet that is classic Trastevere, it serves up a cavalcade of Roman specialities including trippa all romana (tripe with tomato sauce) and pollo con peperoni (chicken with capsicum), as well as bountiful antipasti.

Trastevere

Vicolo del Mattonato 2

W of Viale di Trastevere

telephone or fax: 

open hours:12:30-15:30

When in Rome, be sure to enrol in a short course in Gladiatorial Combat. Intensive three day training seminars are available. The Gladiator school is located on Via Appia. Lions supplied but please bring own trident.

Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) airport is 26km (16mi) southwest of the city. One of the most convenient ways to get into town is by the Stazione Termini direct train, which usually runs hourly from the airport. You can also get a train from the airport to Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina. A night bus runs to Stazione Tiburtina. If you're driving, an autostrada runs from the airport to the city via EUR - it's a 45-minute drive and will cost you a small fortune by taxi. Rome's other airport is Ciampino, about 20km (12mi) southeast of the city. From there you can catch a COTRAL bus to Metro Anagnina, at the end of Metro line A connecting with Stazione Termini, or you can drive down the Via Appia Nuova. The city bus company is ATAC, and most of the main buses terminate at the bus station outside Stazione Termini where you can get a map of the bus routes. Buses run from around 06:00 to 24:00, with some services running throughout the night. The city's Metro service (which is convenient for many of Rome's sights) has two lines, both of which go through Termini. It operates from 05:30-23.30 (Sat 00:30), but Line A is undergoing engineering work till 2008 and closes at 21:00. A bus ticket is also valid for the city's Metro and train services. You need to buy your ticket from a tobacconist, newsstand or vending machine before you get on the train or bus - there are hefty fines for travelling without a ticket, even if you are a dumb foreigner. Driving in Rome is the next best thing to suicide - especially on a motorbike. Most of the historic centre of Rome is closed to normal traffic, although you will be allowed to drive to your hotel. You'll need to get a parking permit from the traffic police if you wish to park anywhere in the centre, or you'll risk being towed. To rent a car you'll need to be at least 21 years old. If you organise your car in advance it will cost you less. There are several rental agencies for cars, motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles. If you'd rather leave the driving to someone else, you can pick up a cab from one of the city's many taxi ranks or phone one any time of day. If you call a cab, the meter is turned on as soon as you call, rather than when you are picked up.

Also known as Fiumicino, Leonardo da Vinci is Rome's main airport, the other being Ciampino. Eurolines is the main bus company for servicing other European destinations, and there are regular train connections to all the major cities in Italy and Europe.