The site that is now Perth was occupied by groups of the Nyoongar tribe for thousands of years. They, and their ancestors, can be traced back some 40,000 years (verified by discoveries of stone implements near the Swan Bridge). In December 1696, three ships in the fleet commanded by de Valmingh - Nijptangh, Geelvinck and Het Weseltje - anchored off Rottnest Island. On 5 January 1697, a well-armed party landed near present-day Cottesloe Beach then marched eastwards to the Swan River near Freshwater Bay. They tried to contact some of the Nyoongar to enquire about the fate of survivors of the Ridderschap van Hollant, lost in 1694, but were unsuccessful. They sailed north, but not before de Vlamingh had bestowed the name Swan on the river. Perth was founded in 1829 as the Swan River Settlement, but it grew very slowly until 1850, when convicts were brought in to alleviate the labour shortage. Many of Perth's fine buildings, such as Government House and Perth Town Hall, were built using convict labour. Even then, its development lagged behind that of the eastern cities, until the discovery of gold in the 1890s increased the population four-fold in a decade and initiated a building boom.

Perth's penchant for rampant speculation has meant that many of the city's 19th-century buildings have since disappeared amid a deluge of concrete edifices of dubious architectural value. This growth has undoubtedly been fuelled by Western Australia's vast mineral wealth. In the 1980s, it was said that Perth had more millionaires per capita than any other city in Australia. Huge business empires burgeoned at a rate completely disproportionate to a city of Perth's size, and soon enough, with the high-profile fall from grace of the beer, yachting, media and art mogul Alan Bond in particular, Perth came to epitomise the consequences of '80s greed. Throughout the boom and bust, the local Nyoongar population remained relentlessly disadvantaged.The political and corporate scandals which rocked the city in the early 1990s added to its frontier, get-rich-quick image. In fact, they were a throwback to the bad old days of the 1980s, when the line between government collusion and government regulation was dangerously blurred by the presiding Labor government.

Richard Court's Liberal (state) government presided over the greater part of the 1990s and oversaw a property boom in Perth similar to that which overtook most of Australia's major urban centres. That boom continued under the premierships of Dr Geoff Gallup and Alan Carpenter - the state has had Labor governments since 2001.The city may no longer be paved with gold, but it is still an affluent one - albeit with conspicuous exceptions - thanks to the state's enormous mineral wealth. That affluence is set to continue, with the signing in 2003 of a gas-supply contract with China worth 25,000,000,000.00.

Perth is fairly safe but remember to lock hotel rooms and cars. Don't leave your valuables unattended. Women travellers should also try to keep an eye on their drinks as drink spiking has been reported in recent times in the city.If you are planning on bushwalking take appropriate precautions: bring sunscreen, water, and remember it can get very cold at night, so plan and dress accordingly. If you have come to Perth for the beaches beware of rips, swim within the flags at popular beaches and bring sunscreen and a hat.If Perth is a stop on a longer journey, remember to plan your driving sensibly. During the wet season some roads are impassable due to flooding. Because of the distances and isolation, carry enough water and fuel and have your car checked over before setting off. Take plenty of breaks to revive and refocus when driving long distances and watch out for wildlife, such as kangaroos, on the roads.

Few will fail to be impressed by the Aquarium of Western Australia. Wander through a 98m underwater tunnel as turtles, stingrays, fish and sharks glide over the top of you. A series of mini-marine worlds show off the state's underwater treasures: intriguing sea dragons, seahorses, moon jellies (which billow, iridescent, through a giant cylinder), venomous fish and sea snakes. Watch stingrays and seals play in the underwater-viewing area.

Hillarys Boat Harbour

West Coast Dr

Hillarys

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.aqwa.com.au

Idyllically located by the river in East Perth, the Holmes á Court Gallery hosts a changing display of works from one of Australia's finest private art collections as well as touring exhibitions. The gallery was started by the late millionaire industrialist Robert Holmes á Court in the 1970s, and today the collection comprises more than 3000 artworks.

11 Brown St

East Perth

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.holmesacourtgallery.com.au

A few international airlines fly direct to Perth, but most visitors arrive in the west via the eastern states. There are direct flights to Perth from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Cairns, Adelaide, Uluru, Darwin and Alice Springs. You can also fly to regional WA centres such as Albany, Broome, Carnarvon, Esperance, Exmouth, Kalgoorlie, Karratha, Geraldton, Monkey Mia and Port Hedland.There are daily bus services from Adelaide via the Nullabor to Perth, or head north along the WA coast on the 56-hour journey to Darwin. Buses also go to regional centres. The Indian-Pacific train line runs from Perth to Sydney via Adelaide, and is one of the world's great train journeys. There are also trains to York, Kalgoorlie and Bunbury.

Transperth(www.transperth.wa.gov.au) operates buses, trains and ferries. A free transit zone, including all Transperth buses and trains, as well as special CAT buses, covers the central city area.A privately run bus meets every flight into Perth airport and travels to the city, hotels and hostels. There is also a suburban airport bus (No 37) which runs every half-hour or so and costs substantially less.Cycling is a great way to explore Perth, and there are many bicycle routes around the city and its environs. Ferries cross the river regularly between 06:50 and 19:15.