Because Australia is one of the oldest land masses on the globe, its pre-European history is a bit vague and woolly. What appears certain is that the first humans came from across the sea, between 50,000 and 70,000 years ago, from Southeast Asia. These nomadic tribes spread across the continent, following fairly prescribed tribal paths. Around what is now Sydney there were three main tribes - the Ku-ring-gai, the Dharawal and the Dharug - who, although sharing some dialects and traditions, all possessed their own unique language, rituals and stories, and occupied different nomadic paths that only occasionally overlapped. Indigenous Australians were the first to make polished, edge-ground stone tools, to cremate their dead and to engrave and paint representations of themselves and animals. They had, and to a degree still retain, a sophisticated culture that integrates religion, history, law, art and codes of behaviour into complex ceremonies. The arrival of the British First Fleet in the 18th century made a significant impact on the Aboriginal communities. The Aboriginal people's egalitarian social structure hampered their attempts at resistance to the new settlers, and the British refused to recognise their legal rights to the land. Many of Sydney's Aboriginal residents were either driven away, murdered by the settlers or killed by unfamiliar diseases. The fleet, which landed at Botany Bay in January 1788 on the recommendation of explorer James Cook, who had visited in 1770, carried 730 male and female convicts from Britain's overcrowded jails as well as an assortment of military personnel under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip. The settlers eventually established themselves at Sydney Cove, north of Botany Bay, and this is where the city of Sydney grew. Over the next few years the second and third fleets showed up, despite the fact that the new settlement was on the brink of starvation for most of its first 15 years. In the last decade of the 18th century there was a huge influx of military settlers, the 'Rum Corps'. Rum became Sydney's main currency and the military, rather than the governors, ran the joint. In 1813 the Blue Mountains, which had previously hemmed in the town, were broached by explorers, and Sydney was linked with the western plains of NSW. When gold was discovered in Victoria and to Sydney's west in the 1850s, settlers poured out of the town in search of wealth and Sydney's importance diminished dramatically.

Australia's states achieved federation on 1 January 1901 - New South Wales became a state of the new Commonwealth of Australia, and Sydney became NSW's capital. Australia went to war in support of Britain in 1914, and the economy boomed until the late 20s, when the Great Depression hit - in 1931 around a third of Sydney's workforce was unemployed. But in 1932 wool prices rose, the city's building industry took off and Sydney once more became the most special city in Australia. The Harbour Bridge was also opened in 1932. There was quite a kerfuffle at the opening of the bridge, when a sword-wielding chappie by the name of de Groot stole the limelight from NSW premier Jack Lang by slashing the opening ribbon before the premier could give it the official chop.Sydney suffered little during WWII, although several Japanese midget subs were captured in the harbour. After the war, European immigrants flooded into the city, and Sydney spread rapidly westwards, gaining a bunch of pizza places in the process. It also picked up one of its most famous landmarks - in 1957 architect Jørn Utzon won a competition to design the Sydney Opera House. In 1966, before the completion of the Opera House, Utzon resigned in frustration at compromises to his plan. Another architectural team took over, and the Opera House was opened in 1973.During the Vietnam war, Sydney became a major R&R stopover for US GIs, and the city started tasting of Coke and burgers, while Kings Cross developed a fine line in sleazy entertainment for the visiting lads (a speciality it maintains to this day). Throughout the 70s, NSW went against the national trend by voting Labor, and longstanding premier Neville Wran oversaw much of Sydney's building boom. The bicentennial celebrations in 1988 and the massive Darling Harbour redevelopment project boosted the city's morale, and today the economy is doing reasonably well.

After winning the bid to host the 2000 Olympic Games, Sydney poured vast amounts of money into renovating and prettying itself up. Though the Games were declared the 'best ever' by IOC head opportunist, Juan Antonio Samaranch, and the follow-on Paralympics were well patronised, visitor numbers were well down on early estimates and changes to Sydney's infrastructure haven't necessarily improved the lot of those impoverished locals who couldn't afford a ticket to the synchronised swimming. It will be some time before the final ledger decides whether the city ended in the black or red - history favours the latter - but at least it gained a few much-needed roundabouts and overpasses (and an excess of darling little bijou wine bars that weren't really needed at all). Still, Sydney's sense of itself as a city fit to take on the world continues to expand.

Sydney isn't a dangerous city but the usual big-city rules apply: never leave cars or rooms unlocked, never leave luggage unattended, never show big wads of money, never get drunk in the company of strangers and never walk through parks alone late at night. Use extra caution in Kings Cross, which attracts drifters from all over Australia and gutter-crawlers from all over Sydney. If you're unlucky enough to have something stolen, immediately report it to the nearest police station. It seems superfluous to mention it, but don't go swimming if you've been drinking alcohol. The surf life-saving clubs aren't there for show - many people are rescued from the surf each year. Shark attacks are extremely rare. Some major beaches, especially around Sydney, have shark-netting to deter sharks from cruising along the beaches. If a siren sounds while you're swimming leave the water quickly but calmly.There are a few poisonous marine animals (such as the blue-ringed octopus, whose bite can be fatal, but only twice in the last hundred years!).There are a few nasty spiders in Sydney, including the funnel-web, the redback and the white-tail. Check your shoes before putting your feet in them - the funnel-web bite can also be fatal. For redback bites, apply ice and seek medical attention.

Sydney's sunshine, parks and can-do attitude combine to offer many ways to up your heart-rate. Boasting more than just one type of beach (you can choose from harbour and ocean), Sydney sands are heavily populated on warm weekends and Sydneysiders also swim before, after and instead of going to work.

There's something wonderfully egalitarian about top restaurants where queuing's required - perfect for travellers who don't have the luxury of booking weeks ahead. Chef Kylie Kwong serves up a tempting seasonal menu made from the best organic, sustainable, fair trade ingredients available.

355 Crown St

Surry Hills

telephone or fax: 

open hours:18:00-22:00

You won't be disappointed in the always-evolving dishes at this modest eatery overlooking Bondi beach. Sean Moran and his team work hard to whip up complex dishes like preserved duck with potato cake, cabbage and pickled cherries. Sidewalk tables offer (sometimes windy) views; the ocean's charm makes your Barossa milk-fed lamb taste all the sweeter.

270 Campbell Pde

Bondi

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.seanspanaroma.com.au

open hours:18:30-22:00

Some of Sydney's finest food is produced at this sleekest of Neil Perry's restaurants, which has been tingling diners' culinary senses for over 15 years. The award-winning seafood is exceptional, with filtered tanks keeping critters fresh until the very last minute. Your cheque will be astronomical, but Rockpool remains a quintessential Sydney experience.

The Rocks

107 George St

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.rockpool.com

open hours:12:00-15:00

With its elegant Classical Greek frontage and modern rear end, the state's main gallery has an outstanding permanent display of Australian art (including a substantial Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander collection), a well-regarded Asian gallery, a Western collection starting from the 16th century, and some inspired temporary exhibits (prices vary).

The Domain

Art Gallery Rd

City Centre

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.artgallery.nsw.gov.au

open hours:10:00-17:00

These expansive gardens are the city's favourite picnic spot, jogging route and strolling venue. Bordering Farm Cove, east of the Sydney Opera House, the enchanting gardens were established in 1816 and feature plant life from the South Pacific and around the world. They include the site of the colony's first paltry vegetable patch. Long before the convicts arrived this was an initiation ground for the Cadigal people.

Mrs Macquaries Rd

City Centre

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.rbgsyd.nsw.gov.au

open hours:07:00-20:00

Sydney's (indeed, Australia's) most famous beach, Bondi lures people from around the world with its promise of sun, sand, surf and exposed skin, and all just 8km from the CBD. The average water temperature is a pleasant 21°C. If you don't like it rough, there are saltwater swimming pools at either end. You can also see Aboriginal rock engravings a short walk north.

Campbell Pde

Bondi

Gloriously white and brilliantly sharp, Australia's most recognisable icon sits dramatically at the tip of Bennelong Point. On a sunny day the Opera House is postcard-perfect; its startling curves and points a pinnacle of architectural genius inspired by the segments of a mandarin. It's a truly memorable place to see a performance, listen to a free outdoor concert or sit under a cafe umbrella and watch harbour life go by.

Bennelong Point

Circular Quay

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.sydneyoperahouse.com

A slice of Gotham City on West Circular Quay, the stately Art Deco MCA has a fine collection of modern art from Australia and around the world (sculpture, painting, installation and moving image) and temporary exhibitions (prices vary) from the art world's superheroes. You'll often find Aboriginal art featured prominently. It's also home to the excellent MCA Store and a classy café.

140 George St

The Rocks

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.mca.com.au

open hours:10:00-17:00

Chances are if you can't remember the end of last night, you probably finished it off at the Taxi Club. Refreshingly seedy after all these years, this place is a national treasure that no tourist brochure's going to tout, but that no tourist's visit should be without. Mind the stairs, which are breakneck-steep, even when you're sober.

40-42 Flinders St

Darlinghurst

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.thetaxiclub.com

This legendary little venue offers live music every night, running the gamut from folk to rock to rap. You'll occasionally catch internationally well-known indie acts playing here.

416 Bourke St

Surry Hills

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.myspace.com/hopetounhotel

prices:

This three-storey Art-Deco hotel is a bit of a 'world of entertainment'. Sure, there's drinking at the smooth and snappy lounge, but there are also great DJs on weekends, live jazz and rock music, and even a theatre in the basement (which turns into a nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights). And of course there's an upscale restaurant as well.

388 Pitt St

City Centre

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.civichotel.com.au

open hours:11:00-01:00

The Sydney Harbour Bridge, completed in 1932, has 6 million hand-driven rivets holding it together.

The buses and ferries of Sydney offer some of the cheapest and most rewarding sightseeing in Australia. A ferry trip to Manly passes the stunning harbour sites and heads onto the ocean past Sydney's famous North Shore beaches, and a bus trip to Vaucluse offers some of the best views of the harbour and surrounds.Public transport in Sydney is an integrated system and one ticket can get you travelling by bus, ferry or train to almost any part of the city.

Sydney Airport is 10km (6mi) south of the city centre. The international and domestic terminals are a 4km (2.5mi), bus or train ride apart. Getting to the city from Sydney Airport (or vice versa) is easiest by train or car. To confirm arrival/departure times call airlines directly or log on to the airport website's 'Quick Flight Search' (www.sydneyairport.com.au). Interstate and regional bus travellers arrive at Sydney Coach Terminal outside Central Station. Major bus companies have offices nearby. Sydney's main rail terminus for Countrylink interstate and regional services is Central Station (13 22 32). Call for information, arrival/departure times and bookings.