Singaporean government policy has always been to promote Singapore as a multicultural nation in which Chinese, Indians and Malays can live in equality and harmony while maintaining their distinct cultural identities. There are imbalances in the distribution of wealth and power among the racial groups, but on the whole multiculturalism seems to work well in small-scale Singapore. The variety of religions found in the region is a direct reflection of the diversity of races living here. Hinduism was practised long before Islam became dominant in the mid-14th century. The Chinese religions are as predominant as the people are, and Christianity has never been strong.Singapore is not widely known for its arts. Traditional art forms such as wayang kulit (shadow puppetry) and mak yong dance and music performances stand alongside contemporary art, drama and film-making.Singapore's leading dance company, Singapore Dance Theatre, puts on performances ranging from classical ballet to contemporary dance. The Nrityalaya Aesthetics Society, which runs Singapore's only full-time troupe of Indian dancers and musicians, performs South Indian dance and music and holds an annual drama festival. Singapore has never been a mecca for film production, but during the 1990s some local movies gained international attention, in particular Bugis Street and Eric Koo's Mee Pok Man, both released in 1995. The visual arts scene is vibrant, with painting, sculpture and multimedia the vehicles of choice for dynamic explorations into the tensions between Western art practices and the perceived erosion of traditional values. Highly regarded local artists include Tan Swie Hian, Heman Chong and Francis Ng.Hwee Hwee Tan's Foreign Bodies (1997)and Mammon Inc. (2001) are among the best of contemporary Singaporean fiction. Tan pinpoints precisely the peculiar dilemmas and contradictions facing Singaporean youth. Other celebrated works include Tigers in Paradise (2004) by Philip Jeyaretnam and Juniper Loa (1964) by Lin Yutang.

According to ancient Malay legend, a Sumatran prince encountered a lion - considered a good omen - on Temasek, prompting him to found Singapura, or the 'Lion City'. It mattered little that lions had never inhabited Singapore (more likely he saw a tiger); what did matter was the establishment of the region as a minor trading post for the powerful Sumatran Srivijaya empire and subsequently as a vassal state of the Javanese Majapahit empire in the mid-13th century.Singapore might have remained a quiet backwater if not for Sir Stamford Raffles' intervention in 1819. The British had first established a presence in the Straits of Melaka (now called Malacca) in the 18th century, when the East India Company set out to secure and protect its line of trade from China to the colonies in India. Fearing another resurgence of expansionism by the Dutch - which had been the dominant European trading power in the region for nearly 200 years - Raffles argued for an increased British presence, which he was promptly given. Under his tutelage, Singapore's forlorn reputation as a fetid, disease-ridden colony was soon forgotten. Migrants, attracted by a tariff-free port, poured in by the thousands, and a flourishing colony with a military and naval base was established.

Singapore's inexorable growth continued into the 20th century. However, the outbreak of WWII brutally exposed the fallacy of British might: they suffered the ignominy of defeat when Japan invaded the colony in 1941. The British were welcomed back after Japan's surrender in 1945, but their right to rule was no longer assured.By the 1950s, burgeoning nationalism had led to the formation of a number of political parties as Singapore moved slowly towards self-government. The People's Action Party, with the Cambridge-educated Lee Kuan Yew as leader, was elected in 1959. Lee became prime minister, a position he was to hold for the next 31 years. In 1963, Singapore formed a union with Malaya (now Malaysia) but, by 1965, the nascent federation was in tatters. Singapore became independent soon after and was once again the economic success story of the region. Shrewd and pathologically pragmatic, Lee fashioned a government heavy on strict social order and the suppression of political opposition.Lee Kuan Yew resigned as prime minister in 1990 and was replaced by Goh Chok Tong, a leader more inclined towards consultation and liberalism. The country's first presidential election was held in August 1993 - prior to that, presidents were elected by members of parliament. In 2004, Lee Kuan Yew's son, Lee Hsien Loong, took over as prime minister, with Goh Chok Tong assuming the new role of Senior Minister and Lee Kuan Yew becoming Minister Mentor.

Economically, the Southeast Asian region's late-'90s downturn (a euphemism if ever there was one) hit Singapore as hard as anywhere else - in one three-month period in late 1998, unemployment doubled. The city-state is slowly bouncing back, however, and on the street things are lively as ever, though the exodus of well-trained professionals seeking glittering international opportunities is a growing concern.Modern-day Singapore is well known for its clean, modern attitude but part of the efficiency involves a continued tough civil order stance, especially with regard to hard-line criminals. Since 1991, the Singapore government has executed over 400 murderers and (more commonly) drug-traffickers, giving the tiny nation the highest execution rate per population in the world.In the August 2005 election SR Nathan was returned to the post of President although this was hardly an election. Opponents who wanted to run against him were deemed ineligible. Since 1959 Singaporean politics have been dominated by the People's Action Party (PAP)and this continued in the 2006 election.

Singapore is a very safe country with lowcrime rates. Pickpockets are not unknownbut, in general, crime is not a problem. Thisis not surprising given the harsh penaltiesmeted out to offenders and the fact that hundredsof suspected criminals are held in jailwithout trial simply because the governmentdoes not have enough evidence to convict them. The importation of drugs carries the deathpenalty, which is regularly carried out. Simply,drugs in Singapore should be avoided at allcosts.The nanny state of Singapore takes a toughline on antisocial issues - the most famousbeing its ban on chewing gum (well, it doesmess up the pavement and could stop theMRT from working). While having gum foryour own consumption is no big deal, bringingit in bulk into Singapore will attract aheavy fine - the standard way of stampingout un-Singaporean activities.Smoking in all public places, littering, jay walking and eating or drinking on the MRT are all punishable with hefty fines.

If shopping is not exhausting enough, there are plenty of other options for shaking it about. Given the polluted waters, none of Singapore's beaches are particularly great for swimming. A better option, if you're not staying at a hotel with its own pool, are the excellent public swimming complexes.

Dominated by high-class hotels this is the playground of Singapore's elite, who are lured by the shopping centres, nightspots, restaurants, bars and lounges. A showcase for the material delights of capitalism, Orchard Rd does possess some sights of cultural interest where credit cards stay sheathed.

Chinatown is Singapore's cultural heart and still provides historic glimpses with its numerous temples, decorated terraces and its frantic conglomeration of merchants, shops and activity. Gentrified restaurants and expensive shops are gradually overtaking the venerable incense-selling professions.

This zoo is world-class, and is constantly being upgraded. The zoo's showpiece animals include endangered white rhino, Bengal white tigers, polar bears, baboons and orang-utans. Wherever possible, moats replace bars, and the zoo is beautifully spread out over 28 hectares of lush greenery beside the Upper Seletar Reservoir.Highlights are many - from the moment you step in to be greeted by free-ranging cotton-top tamarins and white-faced sakis and siamangs cavorting in the trees.

80 Mandai Lake Rd

Nee Soon

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.zoo.com.sg

One of Southeast Asia's must stunning pieces of architecture, the Esplanade was created to announce Singapore's arrival on the world arts scene - and also as a challenge to the city's deep-seated conservatism. It succeeded on both counts, with a year-round programme of opera, classical music, jazz, theatre, dance and a host of fringe events. Taking a guided tour - or a self-guided iTour using an electronic guide - is a great way of exploring this iconic structure.

1 Esplanade Dr

Colonial District

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.esplanade.com

Paradoxically in the middle of Chinatown, Sri Mariamman is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore, originally built in 1823, then rebuilt in 1843. You can't miss the incredible technicolour 1930s gopuram (tower) above the entrance, key to the temple's South-Indian Dravidian style. Sacred cow sculptures graze the boundary walls, while the gopuram is covered in over-the-top images of Brahma the creator, Vishnu the preserver and Shiva the destroyer.

244 South Bridge Rd

Chinatown

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.visitsingapore.com

It sounds like an experiment from Frankenstein, but 'Connecting Plants with People' is the catchcry at the Singapore Botanic Gardens. Wide green spaces like these are rare in Singapore - perfect for jetlag recovery, picnics, reading a paper or just wandering around aimlessly.

1 Cluny Rd

Orchard Road

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.sbg.org.sg

'That which is derived from society should be returned to society' said Aw Boon, heir to the Tiger Balm miracle-ointment fortune. A million dollars later, what he returned was the Haw Par Villa. The family's glamorous villa is long gone, but the park is worth a look if only for the unbelievably kitsch 'Ten Courts of Hell' inside an enormous concrete omelette - grotesque statues depict sinners' fates in gory detail.

Chinese Mythology Theme Park

Singapore

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.visitsingapore.com

All around Singapore you will see the country's fantastical mascot, the Merlion: a half lion, half fish. He's often placed in fountains, which the lower half of him would obviously enjoy.

Most airlines fly into Singapore's heavily trafficked Changi International Airport. The best way to get from the airport into the city (20km/12mi away) is by train, but there is also a wide choice of bus and taxi services. Singapore is the southern terminus of Malaysia's rail system, and three trains go to Kuala Lumpur each day. If you're going to or coming from Malaysia, you have options aplenty, from comfy buses to ferries and even taxis.

Singapore's public transport is plentiful and varied. You have the option of using metered taxis (although rickshaws are really only in Chinatown and the back streets), the MRT subway system or the convenient bus services. On the water, you can get around by ferry or bumboat.