Before the arrival of Europeans, the Seattle area was home to the Duwamish, a generally peaceable tribe that fished the bays and rivers of the Puget Sound and befriended early white settlers. In 1851, a native New Yorker named David Denny led the first group of settlers across the Oregon Trail with the intention of settling along the Puget Sound. Recognising the area's seaport possibilities, Denny's band staked a claim on Alki Point in present-day West Seattle. After a winter of wind and rain, the group moved the settlement to Elliott Bay, renaming it Seattle for the Duwamish chief Sealth, a friend of an early merchant. Hardly a boomtown, early Seattle was peopled mainly by bachelors until one of the founding fathers went back east on a mission to induce young unmarried women to come to Seattle. On two different trips, a total of 57 women made the journey and married into the frontier stock, in the process setting a more civilized tone for the city (and inspiring the especially bad 1960s TV show Here Come the Brides). A spur from the Northern Pacific Railroad's terminus in Portland reached Seattle in 1893, linking the town by rail with the rest of the country. The lumber, shipping and general commerce derived from immigration soon swelled the town's ranks so much that even the Great Fire of 1889 barely slowed the advance. After 50 blocks of the old wooden downtown burned in a single day, the city was reborn in brick and iron, centered on today's Pioneer Square.

Seattle's first boom came when the ship Portland docked in 1897 with its now-famous cargo: two tons of Yukon gold. Within weeks, thousands of fortune hunters from across the country passed through on their way to the northern gold fields. Local business blossomed as Seattle became the banking centre for the nouveau riche, and the bars, brothels and honky-tonks of Pioneer Square overflowed with pleasure-starved miners. The boom continued through WWI, when Northwest lumber was greatly in demand and shipyards along the Puget Sound 'harvested' the surrounding forests. WWII furthered the shipbuilding boom, and aircraft and atomic energy industries added to the region's pattern of profit.

Today, international trade and tech firms (such as Microsoft and Amazon) make up the backbone of Seattle's booming economy. And although Boeing, for decades as synonymous with Seattle as rain, announced in 2001 that it was up and leaving for windier pastures in Chicago, the city's progressive politics, inventive culture and ready access to outdoor recreation continue to lure restless people like no place else on the West Coast. Recent successes by pro football team the Seattle Seahawks have brought team owner Paul Allen, whom some call the city's patron saint, into a more public view; while his Microsoft co-founder, Bill Gates, has distributed his wealth far and wide, Allen has concentrated his largesse on his vision for remaking Seattle.

Seattle is hometown to giant outfitting companies Eddie Bauer and REI, and it's no surprise that folk here adore life outdoors. It's even possible to hike wilderness trails without ever leaving the city. Seward Park offers several miles of trails in a remnant of the area's old growth forest.

The fishy-smelling, tourist-thronged heart of downtown Seattle is Pike Place Market. It's good theater, though claustrophobically crowded. The Main and North Arcades are the most popular areas, with bellowing fishmongers, arts and crafts, and precarious stacks of gemlike fruits and vegetables.

Pike St

btwn Western & 1st Aves

Downtown

Web: http://www.pikeplacemarket.com

One of downtown's most talked-about developments was the expansion and 2007 reopening of the Seattle Art Museum. More than twice as much gallery space has allowed the museum to display its eclectic collections in a more cohesive way rather than being, as it used to call itself, 'a collection of collections.' There's also a lot of new art to show off - to the tune of about one billion dollars' worth of gifts and 1000 new acquisitions.

1300 1st Ave

Downtown

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.seattleartmuseum.org

Seattle's seminal position as the outfitting and transportation hub for the Alaskan and Yukon Gold Rush is recognized at Klondike Gold Rush National Park, one of the USA's few indoor national historical parks. Exhibits, photos and news clippings give an idea of how much gear, food and true grit were necessary to stake a claim in the Klondike. Gold panning is demonstrated by park rangers, and you can view a slide presentation about the gold rush.

cnr Jackson St & 2nd Ave S

Pioneer Square

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.nps.gov/klse

open hours:09:00-17:00

Go north on Broadway (as the chaos turns to well-maintained houses with manicured lawns) until it turns into 10th Ave E and you're within a block of Volunteer Park. At the neo-Byzantine St Mark's Cathedral, a choir performs Gregorian chants on Sundays, accompanied by a 3700-pipe Flentrop organ. The performance is free and open to the public.

Capitol Hill

cnr E Galer St

1245 10th Ave E

telephone or fax: 

The 1962 World's Fair brought in nearly 10 million visitors from around the world for a glimpse of Tomorrow, Seattle-style. What remains of the futuristic enclave of exhibition halls, arenas and public spaces is today called the Seattle Center. Don't be surprised if it generates more nostalgia for The Jetsons than thoughts of the future.

400 Broad St

just N of downtown

Seattle Center

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.seattlecenter.com

open hours:10:00-22:00

prices:

One of the best rock clubs in the country and a Seattle institution, this Belltown space helped launch the grunge and alt-rock scenes and is now home to most of the city's best indie-rock shows, whether local or touring bands. The attached café also serves a decent greasy-spoon breakfast, lunch and dinner.

2200 2nd Ave

Belltown

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.thecrocodile.com

open hours:11:00-02:00

Sort of a factory-outlet shop for microbrews, the Elysian should be cooler than it is. Its beers are pretty metal, with names like Loki Lager and Dragon's Tooth Stout, but the place itself leans more toward a soccer-mom-sportsbar vibe. Pros: it's large enough to accommodate big groups, it has giant windows that make for good people-watching and it serves a good veggie burger.

1221 E Pike St

Capitol Hill

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.elysianbrewing.com

open hours:11:30-24:45

A secret treasure tucked away off busy Leary, the Jolly Roger Taproom is a tiny, pirate-themed bar with a nautical chart painted onto the floor. Though lately it's gone less scurvy-barnacle and more placid-yachtsman, the beer's still tops - and served in 20-oz pints. The food's not bad either; try a chef's special (4 to 8) or a mess of clams and mussels (around 9). The strong winter ale, Jolly Roger, is highly recommended.

1510 NW Leary Way

Ballard

telephone or fax: 

open hours:11:00-23:00

You have to love a place that cut off part of its building to save the one tree in the market, as the bar at Campagne did. Nestled in the courtyard of the Inn at the market, this is a favorite among Seattle's traditional French restaurants. Try the pan-roasted sea scallops or the free-range beef tenderloin. Reservations are recommended. The lounge is open until midnight.

86 Pine St

Pike Place Market

courtyard of Inn at the Market

telephone or fax: 

Web: http://www.campagnerestaurant.com

A godsend for anyone prowling Capitol Hill late at night, Bimbo's slings fat tacos, giant burritos and juicy quesadillas until closing time. The tiny space is crammed with kitschy knickknacks, including velvet matador portraits, oil paintings with neon elements, and a hut-style thatched awning. Have a margarita with your meal or check out the adjoining Cha-Cha Lounge.

506 E Pine St

Capitol Hill

telephone or fax: 

An elegant red-and-black pizza parlor with an old bordello feel (the building was once a brothel), this small, chic place is packed for dinner. It's also popular for drinks and desserts. There's a nice patio out back, or you can let history repeat itself in the upstairs dessert room with a decadent 'Chocolate Chip Orgasm.'

5327 Ballard Ave NW

Ballard

telephone or fax: 

open hours:17:00-21:30

Psychedelic author Tom Robbins 'found his voice' while writing a review of a Doors concert in 1967. He went on to write a string of best-selling different-drum novels, many set in Seattle.

Seattle's iconic Space Needle restaurant had some pretty humble beginnings for such a futuristic image - it was first sketched on a coffeehouse placemat.

Seattle history has been drenched in celluloid. It has been the setting for movies and television shows such as 'Sleepless in Seattle', 'Fabulous Baker Boys', the truly awful 'An Officer and a Gentleman', 'Say Anything' and 'Singles,' both by Cameron Crowe, and everybody's favourite, 'Frasier'.

Ironic - for a city with a decidedly rain-logged, coffee-soaked reputation, Seattle actually has more pleasure boat owners per capita than any other metropolitan city.

Seattle's airport, known as Sea-Tac, is the largest in the Pacific Northwest, offering daily services to Europe, Asia and points throughout North America. Seattle's Sea-Tac Airport is 21km (13mi) south of the city via I-5. Gray Line's Airport Express and Shuttle Express both offer inexpensive rides to and from Seattle's major downtown hotels. Taxis are another option, though they're not for the budget-conscious. There are plenty of car rental agencies at the airport if you want to chauffeur yourself. Seattle is also a major hub for local commuter airlines and has frequent flights to Portland and Vancouver. Greyhound buses link Seattle to Portland, Eugene and points in California along I-5 south, as well as to Bellingham and Vancouver on I-5 north. Buses also serve the I-90 corridor from Seattle to Spokane and on through northern Idaho and Montana to Chicago. If you're heading to British Columbia, Quick Shuttle makes daily express runs between Seattle and Vancouver. Pickup is either at the airport or the downtown Travelodge. Seattle's King St Station is the terminus of two Amtrak train lines. The Empire Builder heads east through Spokane, eventually reaching Chicago, while the Coast Starlight runs between Seattle and Los Angeles, with stops in Tacoma, Olympia, Portland, San Francisco and points south. Ferries to Washington destinations (Bremerton and Bainbridge Island) are state operated, with reservations taken for vehicles only. Reservations for ferries that pass through Canadian waters are also recommended and can be made by calling individual operators. The passenger-only Victoria Clipper departs from Pier 69 in Seattle for Victoria, British Columbia, mornings daily (2.5 hours). The slower but cheaper Victoria Line plies the same route in the afternoon (4.5 hours). Travellers should be prepared to go through Canadian customs upon arrival. Most national car rental firms have facilities at the airport. There are also a handful of companies that rent motorhomes (RVs), campers and motorcycles. Driving is on the right.

Metro Transit buses blanket the metropolitan area, with most buses running through downtown on 4th Ave or in the Bus Tunnel, which has five downtown entrances. In the immediate downtown area, all bus rides are free from 06:00 to 19:00 in the area between 6th Ave and the Waterfront, and between Jackson St in Pioneer Square and Battery St. Note that Seattle Center is outside of the Ride Free Area. Seattle Trolley Tours make for great downtown transport. Visitors are encouraged to get off and on at leisure, and tickets are good for the full day of operation. Stops, indicated by bright yellow sandwich boards, include the Space Needle, Pike Place, Waterfront, Pioneer Square, International District, Kingdome and Seattle Art Museum. The trolley runs every 30 minutes. If you're driving to Seattle, you'll probably arrive via I-5 or I-90. It's usually wise to check traffic conditions before you hit the freeways, as Seattle's traffic is second only to that of Los Angeles in its sheer hellishness. Downtown Seattle also has miles of one-way streets, and parking can be a nightmare (as well as expensive). For trips outside the city limits, the Washington State Ferry system is a wonderfully scenic way to get around. The views of the city from out on the Sound are gorgeous, making a ride on a sunny summer day worth taking whether you need to get anywhere or not. Ferries leave from the piers along the Alaskan Way waterfront.